SCIENTIFIC STRATEGIES IN THE MAINTENANCE AND RESTORATION OF YOUTHFUL SKIN

Filed Under Skin Care

By Dr Des Fernandes
founder of Environ® Skin Care

Scientists are promising us that we are going to live longer, but who wants to live longer if it only means that we are going to look and feel old for longer? We have to do something to lengthen our youthful years and shorten our senile period. The most visible change is in our skin and so we have to learn strategies to keep our skin as young and healthy as possible.

Fortunately we live in the age of Cosmeceutics. Cosmeceutics are cosmetics that act like pharmaceutical products. That’s the medicine that photoaged skin needs because photoageing is a vitamin deficiency skin disease caused by exposure to light, and free radicals which destroy vitamins A, E and C and beta carotene in the skin.

The medicine for photoageing should at least supply what has been lost by exposure to light:

• Vitamin A is responsible for regulating the health of DNA in every cell of the body, but in the skin vitamin A is destroyed by exposure to light. Vitamin A is essential for activating enzyme systems and keeping keratinocytes and fibroblasts healthy. If there is insufficient Vitamin A in the skin then the cells cannot really be healthy. Vitamin A and Beta Carotene therefore should be part of daily skin-care routine for everyone who is exposed to light!
• Vitamin C and E are also destroyed by exposure to light. They are fundamental components of the antioxidant brigade that protects cellular membranes and DNA. They are essential for metabolism and maintenance of cellular health. For our skin’s health we are compelled to address their deficiency every time we go out into sunlight.

Intrinsic ageing of the skin is also not inevitable. It is really a wasting skin disease caused by:

• Free radicals
• Deficiencies of hormones, vitamins and micronutrients
• Other essential factors like cellular electrical charges, that dwindle as we get older

Topical Vitamin A and antioxidants can reverse certain aspects of photoageing. Vitamin A by itself has a great effect, as does Vitamin C, but the combination with a full antioxidant brigade is the most effective. Until this basic fact of vitamin replacement is understood, the preservation of young skin will remain elusive! But remember, replenishment of vitamins has to be combined with sensible protection from the sun without impairing vitamin D production.

I believe that there are two significant rules to revolutionize skin care:

Rule 1: Every skin care regime should have Vitamins A, C, E and Beta Carotene included at lest once a day. Any cosmetic company that’s serious about skin care should supply Vitamin A and the antioxidant vitamins because there are no alternatives.

Rule 2: Vitamin replenishment should start soon after we become exposed to sunlight. That means we start replenishment soon after walking! New creams specifically for very young children need to be introduced.

To make sure that people could protect themselves adequately, I created a laboratory to make this ideal skin care range without any added preservatives or perfumes. This product supplies the skin with vitamins A, C, E, panthenol and beta-carotene.

VITAMIN A. Sunlight causes not only a lower concentration of Vitamin A in the skin but prolonged exposure can also lower the blood levels of Vitamin A. We all walk around with a deficiency of Vitamin A in every part of skin that is exposed to light. We need to replenish that Vitamin A every day otherwise our Vitamin deficit is translated into skin damage – not only after being in blisteringly hot sunlight, but also on cloudy days because UV-A can penetrate through the clouds!

We can’t rely on diet to replenish this Vitamin A because once Vitamin A has been depleted, it takes up to a week to restore the normal levels. We have to restore normal levels of Vitamin A through the skin itself. Women have an added disadvantage because their Vitamin A levels fall each time they menstruate and so in reality they are more susceptible to sun damage at that time.

Some people believe that retinol (Vitamin A alcohol) is actually the true form of Vitamin A. Retinoic acid is just the acid form of Vitamin A and we now know that all the various forms of Vitamin A are interchangeable in the skin cells. The truth is that whatever form of Vitamin A you put on your skin, it is going to be changed by the skin cells into retinyl palmitate. I prefer to use retinyl palmitate for basic replenishment of cutaneous Vitamin A because it is the least irritant form of Vitamin A, and under normal conditions constitutes almost 90% of the Vitamin A in the skin.

Not only that but palmitic acid has an essential role in the maintenance of healthy cell walls and is also a source of energy that is required to create the various forms of Vitamin A.

Beta Carotene is often called Vitamin A but it is not true Vitamin A, it can be converted into two molecules of retinaldehyde. Beta Carotene is one of the most powerful antioxidants found in nature whereas Vitamin A is not. In other words Beta Carotene counteracts the effects of the sun whereas Vitamin A is actually destroyed by the sun. So we really need both Vitamin A and Beta Carotene in our skins.

Vitamin A makes the skin thicker, and normalizes the skin cells. It potentiates the immune cells to keep the skin healthy and reduces pigmentation. The waterproofing barrier of the skin is enhanced and the very surface horny layer of the skin is compacted and appears smoother.

The collagen making cells of the skin (Fibroblasts) are stimulated to make healthy collagen and natural moisturizing factors. This also plumps out the skin. Sebum secretion is normalized and so the incidence of acne is reduced. Oily skin becomes normal. However, if one has dry skin to start with, then Vitamin A initially makes it worse before it boosts the natural moisturisation.

The skin takes on a healthier hue because of the better blood supply. This is usually noticed in older sallow skins.

If the skin is sun damaged then Vitamin A helps to restore normal soft skin and assists in reducing keratoses. Old wrinkled skin gets smoother.

People with skin conditions like atopy (where the natural waterproofing barrier has been impaired) can also use a cream like this. Topical Vitamin A may help to re-establish a healthy horny layer. A product without perfumes or preservatives and proper doses of Vitamin A and the other antioxidants can give stunning improvement of skin.

In order to protect the skin each day, yet allow for the formation of natural Vitamin D, a low SPF should be used for simple “round the town” sun exposure.

The low SPF can be augmented in effect if the day cream has been fortified by the addition of natural Vitamin A and antioxidants. These antioxidants will assist in reducing the damage from UV light.

Vitamin C is essential for the production of collagen and also for reducing pigmentation blemishes. Unfortunately Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) can be unstable in cosmetic formulations. If you are going to use ascorbic acid then make sure that the product is less than three weeks old when you buy it otherwise you may be buying a much weaker product than you expect. A more stable, and more effective form of Vitamin C is magnesium (or sodium) ascorbyl phosphate that will give you its strongest effects for about five months. I prefer to use a product that is specially made for the client to ensure the greatest efficacy. Ascorbyl tetra-isopalmitate (VCIP) has excellent stability and gives excellent levels of vitamin C inside the cells and can be used on delicate skins in high doses. I use it in preference to any other forms for pigmentation, wrinkles and even acne.

Vitamin E is an oil phase antioxidant and is essential for the preservation of cell walls. Vitamin E depends on adequate amounts of Vitamin C to regain activity after it has dealt with a free radical.

Summary:

The skin ages because we lose essential light sensitive vitamins every time we go out into light. The scientific method to counteract this damage is to replace the lost vitamins every single day and preferably both morning and evening. Vitamin A is the key molecule that assists in maintaining safe, healthy skin and it should be used by every single person on this planet every day in order to neutralize the accelerating damage from a thinner ozone layer.

Copyright for this article rests with Environ®/Dr Des Fernandes. No part of this article may be published without approval by a recognized Environ® representative.

If you are interested in this product, please click here to contact us

ELOS ™ Permanent Hair Reduction

Filed Under Hair Removal

The ELOS^TM technology (RF and Light) is featured in all Syneron Hair Removal systems. Safe hair removal

of all colors (including white, grey, red and blonde) - from all skin types, including tanned skin - is now a

reality.

The number of necessary treatments depends on hair color and skin type, and the part of the face or body to

be treated. Usually, four to six treatments are required for substantial hair reduction. Light hair will require a

higher number of treatments.

Vortex Heating

Vortex Heating targets and damages the hair follicle. The Vortex is created when the RF current - the

destructive energy - encircles and heats the hair follicle damaging the follicle itself not just the hair shaft.

Safest.

ELOS requires lower overall energy levels for superior results and maximum safety. Most people experience

no side effects at all, though a few exhibit some short-term local reddening of the surrounding skin.

Treatments require no patient downtime.

White hair removal made possible by elos technology. Hair follicle is destroyed by Radio-Frequency current.

Excellent hair removal results after two treatments with the elos technology. Photos courtesy of Dr. J. Shaoul.

Find out more about our permanent hair reduction services here

Wise Waxing Tips

Filed Under Hair Removal, Skin Care, Waxing

Pre waxing advice

• Keep UVA & UVB exposure to a minimum 2 days prior to your waxing
• It is essential you disclose any medications or topical creams which may contain Retin A, most importantly please inform us if you have previously or are currently receiving treatment for acne with Roaccutane.

Post waxing advice

• Do not sunbake or use a solarium for 24 hours after waxing
• Do not use a spa or sauna for 24 hours after waxing
• Keep exercise to a minimum on the day of waxing
• Avoid wearing tight clothes for 24 hours
• Exfoliate regularly to avoid ingrown hairs
• Moisturise your skin daily

Ingrown hairs

At Heavenly Escape we recommend Derma-Lac & ln-grow as a long term preventative pre and post waxing for those pesky and unsightly ingrown hairs.

Find out more about our waxing services, here

“You Look Lovely in Chiral”

Filed Under Skin Care

written by Christopher Beaumont & Casey Clair 2005

What’s the first thing you think of when you hear about Enantiomers vs. Racemic molecules in Chiral Technology? Let me guess; Was it beautiful, healthy skin? No? Well, it should’ve been, because this thing called Chiral Technology is (forgive the pun) changing the face of skin care, as well as many other industries.

The word “Chiral” (rhymes with spiral) refers to a phenomenon discovered by Louis Pasteur back in the 1850’s. While looking through a microscope, he observed that molecules were divided into two asymmetric sides that were mirror images of each other. Think of it like a pair of hands facing each other, mirror images that fit together perfectly. Pasteur chose the term “Chiral”, from the Greek word “chir”, which means hand. Chiral technology, or molecule separation (single Enantiomers), is what we are talking about here.

Now, if you’re like me and you ditched chemistry class on a semi-regular basis, all this is getting a little thick. But hang with me, I promise I’m going to show you how all this Greek is going to give you healthier, happier, more beautiful skin, and clean your oven! …. just kidding about the oven.

All molecules are made up of two sides; there’s a left side, referred to as the “L” side, and a right side, referred to as the “D” side. (”L” stands for left side and “D” stands for Deuterium, which is Greek for right.) Are you with me so far? Really?

Now here’s where it gets interesting: the receptors in our bodies, whether they be skin cells or brain cells or heart cells, perform much, much better when they connect up with a specific, matching half of the molecule. We also know that our body receptors are selective (some are exclusively “L”, others exclusively “D”). When an “L” body receptor connects with a “D” side of an ingredient molecule, bad things can potentially happen. Conversely, when an “L” body receptor connects with an “L” side of an ingredient molecule, it’s a perfect match (or fit) and very good things happen, all the way down to the cellular level. The bottom line is, with the use of this “molecule separation” technology, you get the full benefit of the ingredient, and you have pretty much eliminated the potential for adverse reactions.

By separating the molecules and designing products that fit perfectly with the body cell receptors, the products are just more effective with better results. It really is just that simple.

Whether you know it or not, you’re already making use of Chiral Technology every time you take a vitamin pill. The reason that your Vitamin E is listed as “D-Alpha Tocopheral” is because your body cell receptors connect to the “D” (right-handed) half of the Vitamin E molecule, which results in the full effectiveness of the Vitamin E. When it comes to Vitamin C, read the fine print and you’ll see that it should always say “L-Ascorbic Acid” (the left-handed half), for exactly the same reason.

Some of the most remarkable advances in Chiral Technology have been developed by major pharmaceutical research facilities. The hugely popular and effective drugs, Lipitor, Zocor, Nexium, and Prilosec all utilize Chiral Technology. Because these drugs are Chirally Correct, you’re getting a better response with fewer side effects. Not only that, the suggested dosages of Chirally Correct products will be lower. For instance, if it takes two ordinary (non-Chirally Correct, also known as “Racemic”) Ibuprofen to alleviate a particular symptom; it will only take one Chirally Correct Ibuprofen tablet to produce the same result. Why? Because your body will absorb more of the medication if only the “proper” half of the molecule is being delivered. And you’ll also be saving your body the wear and tear of processing the extra, non-essential half of the molecule. As a matter of fact, the FDA recently ruled that it will not approve any drug in the future unless it has been “Chirally Resolved”.

So, what’s all this got to do with the promise of beautiful, healthy, youthful skin? Everything.

When a skin care company makes use of this cutting edge technology and creates a line of Chirally Correct products, they’re bringing you the very best combination of nature and science. One such company leading this revolution is Sircuit® Cosmeceuticals. The term “Cosmeceuticals” refers to the marriage of cosmetics to pharmaceuticals. Sircuit® Skin has developed an entire line of 100% natural pure product treatment and anti-aging products for skin and hair, containing no parabens, no extra added fillers, no artificial colors or fragrances, no animal testing, and all utilizing the very latest in this breakthrough Chiral Technology.

What this means is that you will be getting body friendly products that are perfectly matched to your skin’s needs. They will be far more effective, and your skin will absorb them on a much deeper level. Also, you will be using far less of the product because Chiral Technology actually boosts the effectiveness of the ingredients. (Remember the Ibuprofen example?) Perhaps the greatest benefit of these products is that your body will not be asked to process the “wrong-handed”, and potentially damaging, molecules. When you use a run-of-the-mill, over-the-counter (non-Chiral, “Racemic”) skin care product, every molecule in that product contains both the “L” and “D” sides, or the whole molecule. The result is that you end up with a lot of unwanted, unusable molecules left over in your system, and not a very effective product. These “extra” molecule sides are the ones that can cause irritation, stress, and inflammation. Over a long period of time, they can even become toxic. This is one reason why so many people are allergic, or become allergic over time, to certain cosmetics and skin care products.

When you use Chirally Correct products, you’re not only delivering the right “part” of these ingredients to your skin, you are ensuring that the wrong “parts” of these ingredients don’t even get invited to the party.

Someday all skin care products will be made Chirally Correct; it just makes sense.

You’ll be getting all of the good stuff, and none of the bad stuff. And isn’t that the idea? Especially when we’re talking about something as important as your skin! But you don’t have to wait until “someday”. There are a few, forward-thinking companies out there that are making use of these advances right now, today. If you look, you can find them. Once you do, and once you see and feel the difference, you’ll never go back to your other skin care products again.

So, that’s it. That’s Chiral Technology in a nutshell. If I’ve saved even one face from the ravages of over-the-counter hell, then my time has been well spent.

Thank you. And — class dismissed.

Environ Début Cream - Vitamin A Proactive Moisturisers

Filed Under Press Release

DÉBUT

The first step in the application of topical Vitamin A in Environ’s® range Proactive moisturizers
….that’s taken the world by storm

Since ancient times mankind has tried to make cosmetics to improve the skin and hide the effects of aging. The bitter truth is that for the most part, cosmetic creams remained simple old-fashioned moisturizers offering “Dreams of Youthful Skin” wrapped in progressively more modern and expensive containers.

In 1990 Dr. Des Fernandes was the first in the world to introduce the use of vitamin A in effective levels in a skin care cream with the introduction of the Environ
Proactive Range of products. These skin care products contain vitamin A in varying levels of concentration. The creams have been formulated to combat and relieve the harmful effects of the harsh climatic changes of today’s environment - pollution, stress, poor diet and the ever-increasing dose of irradiation from the sun due to the thinning of the protective ozone layer.

Today it is well recognized that the rejuvenation of skin can be achieved by applying vitamin A to the skin. While there are various types of vitamin A, the most common form of vitamin A is Retinyl Palmitate, which is the form that is normally found in our livers. It is also found in the liver of fish like halibut, cod and also sharks.

Vitamin A has an effect on the genes of the cells so that the cells grow and look more normal and it increases the growth of the basal layer of skin cells which may be the predominant reason for the thickening of the skin. One of the most important uses of vitamin A, therefore, is as a basic normalizing function that is essential for every single cell.

Over consumption of Vitamin A can cause liver damage and also skin problems. Therefore the safest way to
supply vitamin A to the skin is to apply it topically. Only minute doses are necessary and so the topical
application of Retinyl Palmitate is usually without reaction. Even the creams with relatively high doses are still much too low to produce any effect on the body. Retinyl Palmitate should be introduced to the skin in its weakest form and then gradually increased to acclimatize the skin to its effects until the maximum dosage is easily accepted by the skin.

Environ
’s new Début cream has been especially designed as the cream to be used when new clients are

introduced to Environ
.The major problem with using vitamin A based products is that people can get a retinoid reaction and think that they are allergic to the cream. This may happen even when they use the Mild Day and Night creams. (Previously the mildest form of Vitamin A available in the Proactive range). By using the Début they will not (or most likely not) have any adverse reaction, no matter how sensitive the skin. However, the fact that the cream contains vitamin A in a reasonable dose, will mean that the cell receptors for vitamin A will be stimulated and will make more receptors enabling the client to gradually tolerate higher levels of more vitamin A and slowly progress onto Proactive Mild Creams.

The Début cream also features the standard antioxidants that are found in the present Proactive series but
Début is only one of a number of products that will be launched in 2001. These new products will include even more antioxidants.

Début is a light, non-greasy cream base that also includes several other moisturizers and is designed to promote hydration of the skin without making the skin oily. It is ideal for new users of the Proactive range, young and even the most sensitive of skins.

Début does not contain any sunscreens and should therefore be used with a broad spectrum sun protection
during the day.

Début comes in a 50-ml tube and will be available from Skin Care Therapists and Medical Practitioners.

More on Environ Skin Care Products Here

If you are interested in any of our Environ skin care products, please click here to contact us

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